1 Getting Started with Your Nikon D5000

In introducing the D5000, Nikon has upped the ante considerably when you compare this model with the company’s most recent entry-level models, the D60 and D40. It has 12 megapixels of resolution, a lightning-fast eleven-point autofocus system (the D60 and D40 calculated autofocus using a measly three autofocus zones), nineteen different Scene modes, and that killer feature—HDTV movie-making. The flip-down, swiveling LCD makes it even more versatile.

Although the Nikon D5000 may be your first exposure to some advanced features— particularly Live View or movie-making—Nikon has retained enough “turn it on and shoot” ease of operation that you can, with about 60 seconds’ worth of prep, go out and begin taking great pictures.

Try it. Insert a memory card and mount the lens (if you bought the D5000 at a store, they probably did that for you). Charge the battery and insert it into the camera. Remove the lens cap, turn the camera on (the button’s concentric with the shutter release button), make sure the LCD has been turned around facing you, and then set the big ol’ dial on the top-right edge to the green AUTO icon. Point the D5000 at something interesting and press the shutter release. Presto! A pretty good picture will pop up on the 2.7-inch color LCD on the back of the camera. Wasn’t that easy?

But if you purchased this book, you’re probably not going to be satisfied with pretty good photos. You want to shoot incredible images. The D5000 can do that, too. All you need is this book and some practice. The first step is to familiarize yourself with your camera. The first three chapters of this book will take care of that. Then, as you gain experience and skills, you’ll want to learn more about how to improve your exposures, fine-tune the color, or use the essential tools of photography, such as electronic flash and available light. You’ll want to learn how to choose and use lenses, too. All that information can be found in the second part of this book. The Nikon D5000 is not only easy to use, it’s easy to learn to use.

As I’ve done with my guidebooks for previous Nikon cameras, I’m going to divide my introduction to the Nikon D5000 into three parts. The first part will cover what you absolutely need to know just to get started using the camera (you’ll find that in this chapter). The second part offers a more comprehensive look at what you should know about the camera and its controls to use its features effectively (that’ll be found in Chapter 2). Finally, you’ll learn how to make key settings using the menu system, so you’ll be able to fine-tune and tweak the D5000 to operate exactly the way you want, in Chapter 3. While you probably should master everything in the first two chapters right away, you can take more time to learn about the settings described in Chapter 3, because you won’t need to use all those options immediately. I’ve included everything about menus and settings in that chapter so you’ll find what you need, when you need it, all in one place.

Some of you may have owned a Nikon digital SLR before. Perhaps you owned a Nikon D50 or D70/D70s, or even the D5000’s immediate predecessors (the D60 and D40) for some time and were eager to upgrade to a more modern 12-megapixel model with more features. A few of you may even be someone like me, who uses a more advanced Nikon dSLR, such as the D300, as a “main” camera, but finds the more compact D5000 an alluring walk-about camera and backup.

I’ve long used both my D60 and D40 in such a role, and both cameras still get daily use from my family (especially during traveling), but I think the D5000 makes an even better walk-around camera. It’s about as compact as my D60/D40, but has more resolution, can shoot movies, and has that swiveling screen that comes in very handy when you encounter one of those hard-to-shoot (angle-wise) situations.

If you fall into any of those Nikon pre-owner categories, you may be able to skim through this chapter quickly and move on to the two that follow. The next few pages are designed to get your camera fired up and ready for shooting as quickly as possible. If you’re new to digital SLRs, Nikon dSLRs, or even digital photography, you’ll want to read through this introduction more carefully. After all, the Nikon D5000 is not strictly a point-and-shoot camera, although, as I said, you can easily set it up in fully automated Auto mode, choose one of the 19 Scene modes, or use the semi-automated Program exposure mode and a basic autofocus setting for easy capture of grab shots. But, if you want a little more control over your shooting, you’ll need to know more. So I’m going to provide a basic pre-flight checklist that you need to complete before you really spread your wings and take off. You won’t find a lot of detail in this chapter. Indeed, I’m going to tell you just what you absolutely must understand, accompanied by some interesting tidbits that will help you become acclimated to your D5000. I’ll go into more depth and even repeat some of what I explain here in later chapters, so you don’t have to memorize everything you see. Just relax, follow a few easy steps, and then go out and begin taking your best shots—ever.

First Things First

The Nikon D5000 comes in an impressive box filled with stuff, including connecting cords, booklets, a CD, and lots of paperwork. The most important components are the camera and lens (unlike some other Nikon models, the D5000 is most often sold in a kit with a lens), battery, battery charger, and, if you’re the nervous type, the neck strap. You’ll also need a Secure Digital memory card, as one is not included. If you purchased your D5000 from a camera shop, as I did, the store personnel probably attached the neck strap for you, ran through some basic operational advice that you’ve already forgotten, tried to sell you a Secure Digital card, and then, after they’d given you all the help you could absorb, sent you on your way with a handshake.

Perhaps you purchased your D5000 from one of those mass merchandisers that also sell washing machines and vacuum cleaners. In that case, you might have been sent on your way with only the handshake, or, maybe, not even that if you resisted the hard-sell efforts to sell you an extended warranty. You save a few bucks at the big-box stores, but you don’t get the personal service a professional photo retailer provides. It’s your choice. There’s a third alternative, of course. You might have purchased your camera from a mail order or Internet source, and your D5000 arrived in a big brown (or purple/red) truck. Your only interaction when you took possession of your camera was to scrawl your signature on an electronic clipboard.

In all three cases, the first thing to do is to carefully unpack the camera and double-check the contents with the checklist on one end of the box, helpfully designated under the [Supplied Accessories] bracketed heading. While this level of setup detail may seem as superfluous as the instructions on a bottle of shampoo, checking the contents first is always a good idea. No matter who sells a camera, it’s common to open boxes, use a particular camera for a demonstration, and then repack the box without replacing all the pieces and parts afterwards. Someone might actually have helpfully checked out your camera on your behalf—and then mispacked the box. It’s better to know now that something is missing so you can seek redress immediately, rather than discover two months from now that the video cable you thought you’d never use (but now must have) was never in the box. I once purchased a brand-new Nikon dSLR kit that was supposed to include a second focusing screen; it wasn’t in the box, but because I discovered the deficiency right away, the dealer ordered a replacement for me post haste.

At a minimum, the box should hold the following:

Nikon D5000 digital camera. It almost goes without saying that you should check out the camera immediately, making sure the color LCD on the back isn’t scratched or cracked, the Secure Digital and battery doors open properly, and, when a charged battery is inserted and lens mounted, the camera powers up and reports for duty. Out-of-the-box defects like these are rare, but they can happen. It’s probably more common that your dealer played with the camera or, perhaps, it was a customer return. That’s why it’s best to buy your D5000 from a retailer you trust to supply a factory-fresh camera.

Rechargeable Li-ion battery EN-EL9a. You’ll need to charge this 7.4V, 1080mAh (milliampere hour) battery before using it. I’ll offer instructions later in this chapter.

Quick charger MH-23. This charger is required to vitalize the EN-EL9a battery.

Audio/video cable EG-CP14. Use this cable to connect your D5000 to a standard definition (analog) television through the set’s yellow RCA video jack when you want to view the camera’s output on a larger screen. It plugs into the same port as the USB cable, so you can’t use them both at the same time.

USB Cable UC-E6. You can use this cable to transfer photos from the camera to your computer (I don’t recommend that because direct transfer uses a lot of battery power), to upload and download settings between the camera and your computer (highly recommended), and to operate your camera remotely using Nikon Camera Control Pro software (not included in the box). This cable is not the standard one that works with the majority of digital cameras—Nikon and otherwise—unlike the UC-E4, which was furnished with older cameras. So, if you’ve been using the previous cable with all your digital cameras, you’ll need to keep this special one handy. Nikon changed the connector so that a single port can be used for both USB and AV connections.

Neck strap. Nikon provides you with an AN-DC3 “steal me” neck strap embla-zoned with your camera model, and while useful for showing off to your friends exactly which nifty new camera you bought, it’s not very adjustable. I never attach the Nikon strap to my cameras, and instead opt for a more serviceable strap from UPstrap (www.upstrap-pro.com) or Op-Tech (www.optechusa.com). If you carry your camera over one shoulder, as many do, I particularly recommend UPstrap (shown in Figure 1.1). It has a patented non-slip pad that offers reassuring traction and eliminates the contortions we sometimes go through to keep the camera from slipping off. I know several photographers who refuse to use anything else. If you do purchase an UPstrap, be sure to tell photographer-inventor Al Stegmeyer that I sent you hence.

Figure 1.1 Third-party neck straps, like this UPstrap model, are often preferable to the Nikon-supplied strap.

BF-1A body cap/rear lens cap. The body cap keeps dust from infiltrating your camera when a lens is not mounted. Always carry a body cap (and rear lens cap, also supplied with the D5000) in your camera bag for those times when you need to have the camera bare of optics for more than a minute or two. (That usually happens when repacking a bag efficiently for transport, or when you are carrying an extra body or two for backup.) The body cap/lens cap nest together for compact storage.

DK-24 rubber eyecup. This is the square rubber eyecup that comes installed on the D5000. It slides on and off the viewfinder.

DK-5 eyepiece cap. This small piece can be clipped over the viewfinder window to prevent strong light sources from entering the viewing system when your eye is not pressed up against it, potentially affecting exposure measurement. That can be a special problem when the camera is mounted on a tripod, because additional illumination from the rear can make its way to the 420-segment CCD that interprets light reaching the focusing screen. I pack this widget away to keep from losing it. As a practical matter, you’ll never find it when you really need it, and covering the viewfinder with your hand (hover near the viewfinder window rather than touch it, to avoid shaking a tripod-mounted camera) works almost as well.

BS-1 accessory shoe cover. This is a sliding plastic piece that fits into the accessory shoe on top of the camera, and protects its contents from damage. You can remove it (and probably lose it) when you attach an optional external electronic flash to the shoe. I always, without fail, tuck it into the same place each time (in my case, my right front pants pocket), and have yet to lose one.

User manual. Even if you have this book, you’ll probably want to check the user’s guide that Nikon provides, if only to confirm the actual nomenclature for some obscure accessory, or to double-check an error code. Google “Nikon D5000 manual PDF” to find a downloadable version that you can store on your laptop, a CDROM, or other media in case you want to access this reference when the paper version isn’t handy. If you have an old Secure Digital card that’s too small to be usable on a modern dSLR (I still have some 128MB and 256MB cards), you can store the PDF on that. But an even better choice is to put the manual on a low-capacity USB “thumb” drive, which you can buy for less than $10. You’ll then be able to access the reference anywhere you are, because you can always find someone with a computer that has a USB port and Adobe Acrobat Reader available. You might not be lucky enough to locate a computer with a Secure Digital reader.

Quick guide. This little booklet tucked away in the camera’s paperwork offers a reasonable summary of the Nikon D5000’s basic commands and settings, and can be stowed in your camera bag more easily than a “field guide” or even this book.

Software CD-ROM. Here you’ll find the Nikon Software Suite, which includes various drivers required by some operating systems; Nikon Transfer (to move your files from camera or memory card to your computer); Nikon ViewNX (a useful image management program); as well as various third-party utilities (some of which you may already have installed on your computer). I’ll cover all the Nikon software offerings later in this book.

Warranty and registration card. Don’t lose these! (But don’t panic if you do; you can still register your camera without them.) You can register your Nikon D5000 by mail or online (in the USA, the URL is www.nikonusa.com/register) and may need the information in this paperwork (plus the purchase receipt/invoice from your retailer) should you require Nikon service support. In some areas, no registration card is supplied with cameras.

Don’t bother rooting around in the box for anything beyond what I’ve listed previously. There are a few things Nikon classifies as optional accessories, even though you (and I) might consider some of them essential. Here’s a list of what you don’t get in the box, but might want to think about as an impending purchase. I’ll list them roughly in the order of importance:

Secure Digital card. First-time digital camera buyers are sometimes shocked that their new tool doesn’t come with a memory card. Why should it? The manufacturer doesn’t have the slightest idea of how much storage you require, or whether you want a slow/inexpensive card or one that’s faster/more expensive, so why should they pack one in the box and charge you for it? You’ll want to buy one of your own that is 4GB in size, at the minimum.

Extra EN-EL9a battery. Even though you might get 500 to more than 1,000 shots from a single battery, it’s easy to exceed that figure in a few hours of shooting sports at up to 4 fps. Batteries can unexpectedly fail, too, or simply lose their charge from sitting around unused for a week or two. Buy an extra. I own five, in total, because they also work just fine in my old Nikon D60 and D40. Keep one or more charged at all times, and free your mind from worry.

Add-on speedlight. Your built-in flash can function as the main illumination for your photo, or be softened and used to fill in shadows. But, you’ll have to own one or more external flash units to gain that flexibility. If you do much flash photography at all, consider an add-on speedlight as an important accessory.

Wireless Remote Control ML-L3. Use this infrared trigger (see Figure 1.2) to take a picture without the need to touch the camera itself. In a pinch, you can use the D5000’s self-timer to minimize vibration when triggering the camera. But when you want to take a photo at the exact moment you desire (and not when the self-timer happens to trip), or need to eliminate all possibility of human-induced camera shake, you need this infrared control.

Figure 1.2 The Nikon Wireless Remote Control ML-L3 lets you trigger your camera remotely.

Nikon GP-1 global positioning system (GPS) device. This accessory attaches to the accessory shoe on top of the Nikon D5000 and captures latitude, longitude, and altitude information that is imprinted in a special data area of your image files. The “geotagging” data can be plotted on a map in Nikon ViewNX or other software programs. I’ll explain more about this feature in Chapter 5.

Remote Release Cable MC-DC2. This is a new cable release, currently used only with the Nikon D90 and D5000, that allows triggering the shutter without touching the camera itself. It plugs into the GPS port at the bottom-left edge of the camera. You can use this release at the same time as the GP-1 accessory; the GPS cable has a pass-through that allows plugging in the MC-DC2.

AC Adapter EH-5a/Power Connector EP-5. These two optional devices are used together to power the Nikon D5000 independently of the batteries. There are several typical situations where this capability can come in handy: when you’re cleaning the sensor manually and want to totally eliminate the possibility that a lack of juice will cause the fragile shutter and mirror to spring to life during the process; when indoors shooting tabletop photos, portraits, class pictures, and so forth for hours on end; when using your D5000 for remote shooting as well as time-lapse photography; for extensive review of images on your television; or for file transfer to your computer. These all use prodigious amounts of power, which can be provided by this AC adapter. (Beware of power outages and blackouts when cleaning your sensor, however!)

Multi-power battery pack MB-D80. Lots of photographers consider this battery pack/vertical grip to be an essential item. The price is reasonable at less than $170. Unfortunately, it is delivered “bare,” with no extra power sources at all. You’ll need to purchase six AA batteries (alkalines or rechargeables) for the supplied AA battery tray, or have an extra EN-EL9a battery or two to use this accessory. (I told you that you’d need that extra battery.)

DR-6 right-angle viewer. Used with the Nikon Eyepiece Adapter DK-22, it fastens in place of the standard square rubber eyecup and provides a 90-degree view for framing and composing your image at right angles to the original viewfinder. It’s useful for low-level (or high-level) shooting. (Or, maybe, shooting around corners!)

SC-28 TTL flash cord. Allows using Nikon speedlights off-camera, while retaining all the automated features.

SC-29 TTL flash cord. Similar to the SC-28, this unit has its own AF-assist lamp, which can provide extra illumination for the D5000’s autofocus system in dim light (which, not coincidentally, is when you’ll probably be using an electronic flash).

Nikon Capture NX 2 software. Nikon’s NEF (RAW) conversion and image tweaking software is an extra-cost option that most D5000 owners won’t need until they progress into extensive image editing. I’ll describe this utility’s functions in Chapter 8.

Camera Control Pro 2 software. This is the utility you’ll use to operate your camera remotely from your computer. Nikon charges extra for this software, too, but you’ll find it invaluable if you’re hiding near a tethered, tripod-mounted camera while shooting, say, close-ups of hummingbirds. There are lots of applications for remote shooting, and you’ll need Camera Control Pro to operate your camera.

Initial Setup

Once you’ve unpacked and inspected your camera, the initial setup of your Nikon D5000 is fast and easy. Basically, you just need to charge the battery, attach a lens, and insert a Secure Digital card. I’ll address each of these steps separately, but if you already are confident you can manage these setup tasks without further instructions, feel free to skip this section entirely. I realize that some readers are ambitious, if inexperienced, and should, at the minimum, skim the contents of the next section, because I’m going to list a few options that you might not be aware of.

Mastering the Multi Selector

I’ll be saving descriptions of most of the controls used with the Nikon D5000 until Chapter 2, which provides a complete “roadmap” of the camera’s buttons and dials and switches. However, you may need to perform a few tasks during this initial setup process, and most of them will require the Menu button and the multi selector pad. The Menu button is easy to find: it’s located to the left of the LCD, the second button from the top. It requires almost no explanation; when you want to access a menu, press it. To exit most menus, press it again.

The multi selector pad may remind you of the similar control found on many point-and-shoot cameras, and other digital SLRs. It consists of a thumbpad-sized button with indentations at the North, South, East, and West positions, plus a button in the center marked “OK” (see Figure 1.3).

Figure 1.3 The multi selector pad has four directional buttons for navigating up/down/left/ right, and an OK button to confirm your selection.

The multi selector on the D5000 functions slightly differently than its counterpart on some other cameras. For example, some point-and-shoot models assign a function, such as white balance or ISO setting, to one of the directional buttons (usually in conjunction with a function key of some sort). The use of the multi selector varies, even within the Nikon dSLR line up. For example, many Nikon digital SLRs, such as the Nikon D50/D70/D80 have no center button in the multi selector at all. (Their OK/Enter button is located elsewhere.) Other Nikon cameras (such as the D300 and D3/D3x) allow assigning a function of your choice to the multi selector center button.

With the D5000, the multi selector is used exclusively for navigation; for example, to navigate among menus on the LCD or to choose one of the eleven focus points, to advance or reverse display of a series of images during picture review, or to change the kind of photo information displayed on the screen. The OK button is used to confirm your choices, send the image currently being viewed to the Retouch menu for modification, and also to enter movie-shooting mode when using Live View.

So, from time to time in this chapter (and throughout this book), I’ll be referring to the multi selector and its left/right/up/down buttons, and center OK button.

Setting the Clock

It’s likely that your Nikon D5000’s internal clock hasn’t been set to your local time, so you may need to do that first. (The in-camera clock might have been set for you by someone checking out your camera prior to delivery.) If you do need to set the clock, the flashing CLOCK indicator on the LCD will be the giveaway. You’ll find complete instructions for setting the four options for the date/time (time zone, actual date and time, the date format, and whether you want the D5000 to conform to Daylight Savings Time) in Chapter 3. However, if you think you can handle this step without instruction, press the Menu button to the left of the LCD, and then use the multi selector to scroll down to the Setup menu (it’s marked with a wrench icon), press the multi selector button to the right, and then press the down button to scroll down to Time Zone and Date entry, and press the right button again. The options will appear on the screen that appears next. Keep in mind that you’ll need to reset your camera’s internal clock from time to time, as it is not 100 percent accurate. Of course, your camera will not explode if the internal clock is inaccurate, but your images will have the wrong time stamped on them. You may also need to reset your camera’s internal clock if you travel and you want the time stamp on your pictures to reflect the time where the images were shot, and not the time back home.

Battery Included

Your Nikon D5000 is a sophisticated hunk of machinery and electronics, but it needs a charged battery to function, so rejuvenating the EN-EL9a lithium-ion battery pack furnished with the camera should be your first step. A fully charged power source should be good for a minimum of 500 shots, based on standard tests defined by the Camera & Imaging Products Association (CIPA) document DC-002. In the real world, of course, the life of the battery will depend on how often you review the shots you’ve taken on the LCD screen, how many pictures you take with the built-in flash, and many other factors. You’ll want to keep track of how many pictures you are able to take in your own typical circumstances, and use that figure as a guideline, instead.

All rechargeable batteries undergo some degree of self-discharge just sitting idle in the camera or in the original packaging. Lithium-ion power packs of this type typically lose a small amount of their charge every day, even when the camera isn’t turned on. Li-ion cells lose their power through a chemical reaction that continues when the camera is switched off. It’s very likely that the battery purchased with your camera is at least partially pooped out, so you’ll want to revive it before going out for some serious shooting.

Charging the Battery

When the battery is inserted into the MH-23 charger properly (it’s impossible to insert it incorrectly), as you can see in Figure 1.4, the contacts on the battery line up and mate with matching contacts inside the charger. When properly connected, an orange Charge light begins flashing, and remains flashing until the status lamp glows steadily indicating that charging is finished. When the battery is charged, slide the latch on the bottom of the camera and ease the battery in, as shown in Figure 1.5.

Figure 1.4 When the charger is plugged in, the flashing status light will illuminate while the battery is being charged.

Figure 1.5 Insert the battery in the camera; it only fits one way.

Final Steps

Your Nikon D5000 is almost ready to fire up and shoot. You’ll need to select and mount a lens, adjust the viewfinder for your vision, and insert a Secure Digital card. Each of these steps is easy, and if you’ve used any Nikon before, you already know exactly what to do. I’m going to provide a little extra detail for those of you who are new to the Nikon or SLR world.

Mounting the Lens

As you’ll see, my recommended lens mounting procedure emphasizes protecting your equipment from accidental damage and minimizing the intrusion of dust. If your D5000 has no lens attached, select the lens you want to use and loosen (but do not remove) the rear lens cap. I generally place the lens I am planning to mount vertically in a slot in my camera bag, where it’s protected from mishaps, but ready to pick up quickly. By loosening the rear lens cap, you’ll be able to lift it off the back of the lens at the last instant, so the rear element of the lens is covered until then.

After that, remove the body cap by rotating the cap away from the release button. You should always mount the body cap when there is no lens on the camera, because it helps keep dust out of the interior of the camera. (While the D5000’s automatic sensor cleaning mechanism works fine, the less dust it has to contend with, the better.) The body cap also protects the camera’s innards from damage caused by intruding objects (including your fingers, if you’re not cautious).

Once the body cap has been removed, remove the rear lens cap from the lens, set it aside, and then mount the lens on the camera by matching the alignment indicator on the lens barrel with the white dot on the camera’s lens mount (see Figure 1.6). Rotate the lens toward the shutter release until it seats securely. Some lenses are trickier to mount than others, especially telephoto lenses with special collars for attaching the lens itself to a tripod.

Figure 1.6 Match the indicator on the lens with the white dot on the camera mount to properly align the lens with the bayonet mount.

Set the focus mode switch on the lens to AF or M/A (Autofocus). If the lens hood is bayoneted on the lens in the reversed position (which makes the lens/hood combination more compact for transport), twist it off and remount with the “petals” (if present) facing outward (see Figure 1.7). A lens hood protects the front of the lens from accidental bumps, and reduces flare caused by extraneous light arriving at the front of the lens from outside the picture area.

Figure 1.7 A lens hood protects the lens from extraneous light and accidental bumps.

Adjusting Diopter Correction

Those of us with less than perfect eyesight can often benefit from a little optical correction in the viewfinder. Your contact lenses or glasses may provide all the correction you need, but if you are a glasses wearer and want to use the D5000 without your glasses, or to add further correction, you can take advantage of the camera’s built-in diopter adjustment, which can be varied from –1.7 to +0.5 correction. Press the shutter release halfway to illuminate the indicators in the viewfinder, then slide the diopter adjustment switch next to the viewfinder (see Figure 1.8) while looking through the viewfinder until the indicators appear sharp. Should the available correction be insufficient, Nikon offers nine different Diopter-Adjustment Viewfinder Correction lenses for the viewfinder window, ranging from –5 to +3, at a cost of $15-$20 each.

Inserting a Secure Digital Card

You may have set up your D5000 so you can’t take photos without a Secure Digital card inserted. (There is a No Memory Card entry, Custom Setting menu CSM #f4 that enables/disables shutter release functions when a memory card is absent—learn about that in Chapter 3.) So, your final step will be to insert a Secure Digital card. Slide the cover on the right side of the camera towards the back, and then open it. You should only remove the memory card when the camera is switched off, or, at the very least, the yellow-green card access light (just to the right of the LCD and speaker on the back of the camera) that indicates the D5000 is writing to the card is not illuminated.

Figure 1.8 Viewfinder diopter correction from –1.7 to +0.5 can be dialed in.

Insert the memory card with the label facing the back of the camera oriented so the side with the gold edge connectors goes into the slot first (see Figure 1.9). Close the door, and, if this is your first use of the card, format it (described next). When you want to remove the memory card later, press the card inwards, and it will pop right out.

Formatting a Memory Card

There are three ways to create a blank Secure Digital card for your D5000, and two of them are at least partially wrong. Here are your options, both correct and incorrect:

Transfer (move) files to your computer. When you transfer (rather than copy) all the image files to your computer from the Secure Digital card (either using a direct cable transfer or with a card reader and appropriate software, as described later in this chapter), the old image files can, at your option, be erased from the card, leaving the card blank. Theoretically. Unfortunately, this method does not remove files that you’ve labeled as Protected (by pressing the Protect button to the right of the viewfinder window [it’s marked with a key icon] while viewing the image on the LCD), nor does it identify and lock out parts of your SD card that have become

Figure 1.9 The Secure Digital card is inserted with the label facing the back of the camera.

corrupted or unusable since the last time you formatted the card. Therefore, I recommend always formatting the card, rather than simply moving the image files, each time you want to make a blank card. The only exception is when you want to leave the protected/unerased images on the card for awhile longer, say, to share with friends, family, and colleagues.

(Don’t) Format in your computer. With the SD card inserted in a card reader or card slot in your computer, you can use Windows or Mac OS to reformat the memory card. Don’t! The operating system won’t necessarily arrange the structure of the card the way the D5000 likes to see it (in computer terms, an incorrect file system may be installed). The only way to ensure that the card has been properly formatted for your camera is to perform the format in the camera itself. The only exception to this rule is when you have a seriously corrupted memory card that your camera refuses to format. Sometimes it is possible to revive such a corrupted card by allowing the operating system to reformat it first, then trying again in the camera.

Setup menu format. To use one of the recommended methods to format a memory card, press the Menu button, use the up/down buttons of the multi selector (that thumb-pad-sized control to the right of the LCD) to choose the Setup menu (which is represented by that wrench icon), navigate to the Format Memory Card entry with the right button of the multi selector, and select Yes from the screen that appears. Press OK (in the center of the multi selector pad) to begin the format process.

Table 1.1 shows the typical number of shots you can expect using a moderately-sized 8GB SD memory card (which I expect will be a popular size card among D5000 users as prices continue to plummet during the life of this book). All figures are by actual count with my own 8GB SD card. Take those numbers and cut them in half if you’re using a 4GB SD card; multiply by 25 percent if you’re using a 2GB card, or by 12.5 percent if you’re working with a 1GB SD card.

Table 1.1 File Capacity of 8GB Card with D3s (halve these for D3x)

Release/Drive Modes

This shooting mode determines when (and how often) the D5000 makes an exposure. If you’re coming to the dSLR world from a point-and-shoot camera, you might have used a model that labels these options as Drive modes, dating back to the film era when cameras could be set for single-shot or “motor drive” (continuous) shooting modes. Your D5000 has six release (shooting) modes: Single Shot, Continuous Shooting (burst), Self-timer, Two-Second Delayed Remote, Quick Response Remote, and Quiet Shutter Release. (The two “remote” modes require the use of the ML-L3 infrared remote control.)

There are several ways to specify one of the six release modes. You can use the Information Edit display, which allows you to change many of the D5000’s basic settings. Or, you can change the behavior of the Self-timer/Fn button located near the D5000’s chrome nameplate on the front of the camera (using Custom Setting CSM #1, as described in Chapter 3) so that when you press the button while rotating the command dial, the release mode changes.

I’ll show you how to use the Quick Settings display first, because it’s useful to change so many options, before explaining each of the release modes.

Using the Information Edit Display

When you press the Information Edit button on the back of the camera (the bottom button on the left side of the LCD; not to be confused with the Info button on the top of the camera), the Shooting Information display (shown in Figure 1.10) appears. You can also show or hide this screen by pressing the Info button. (The difference between the two is simple: the Info button just turns the Shooting Information screen on or off; the Information Edit button does the same thing, but a second press kicks the camera into Information Edit mode, which allows you to change many of the settings.)

The Shooting Information display is a useful status screen. (Shown in the figure is the “Classic” version. A “Graphic” version is also available; in Chapter 3, I’ll show you how to select it using the Info Display Format entry in the Setup menu.) Press the Information button again to access the Information Edit Screen (Figure 1.11), which allows you to modify the most frequently accessed options.

To change release modes, follow these steps:

1. If the LCD screen is blank, press the Information button twice to access the Information Edit screen.

2. Use the multi selector pad’s left/right/up/down buttons to navigate to the settings at the side of the screen, and up to the Release mode option. (It’s the fifth entry down from the top.)

Figure 1.10 The Shooting Information display shows the status of your current settings.

Figure 1.11 Press the Information button a second time to use the Information Edit screen to modify your options.

3. Press the OK button in the center of the multi selector pad to produce the Release Mode screen, which has six options.

4. To activate the self-timer, select the icon resembling a clock face with the timer delay period next to it. This is 10s by default, but can be changed to 2, 5, or 20 seconds in the Custom Settings menu entry CSM #c3 (as described in Chapter 3).

5. Press the OK button to confirm your choice.

6. Press the Information button to exit the screen.

The release modes available from the Quick Settings menu are:

Single frame. In this single shot mode, the default, the D5000 takes one picture each time you press the shutter release button down all the way. If you press the shutter and nothing happens (which is very frustrating!) you may be using a focus mode that requires sharp focus to be achieved before a picture can be taken. This is called focus priority, and is discussed in more detail under “Choosing a Focus Mode,” later in this chapter.

Continuous Shooting. This shooting mode can be set to produce bursts of about 4 frames per second, useful for grabbing action shots of sports, or for capturing fleeting expressions (especially of children).

Self-Timer. You can use the self-timer as a replacement for a remote release, to reduce the effects of camera/user shake when the D5000 is mounted on a tripod or, say, set on a firm surface, or when you want to get in the picture yourself. The picture will be taken after about 10 seconds (or 2, 5, or 20 seconds if you’ve changed the default value as described in Chapter 3). A white lamp on the front of the camera will blink while the timer counts down, then remain on continuously for about two seconds just before the picture is taken. Any time you use the camera on a tripod (with the self-timer or otherwise) make sure there is no bright light shining on the viewfinder window; if so, cover it or locate that eyepiece cap and block the window. Self-timer mode is not “sticky.” After you take one picture with the self-timer mode, the D5000 returns to single frame mode.

Two-Second Delayed Remote. Set this release mode, and the D5000 will take a picture two seconds after you press the button on the ML-L3 infrared remote control. This mode is “sticky.” It remains in force until you turn it off manually, or simply turn off the D5000 and turn it back on.

Quick Release Remote. With this choice activated, the D5000 takes the photo as soon as you press the button on the ML-L3 infrared remote control. This mode is also “sticky.” It remains in force until you turn it off manually, or simply turn off the D5000 and turn it back on.

Quiet Shutter Release. In this mode, the D5000’s Beep sound is turned off (whether or not you’ve disabled it in the Custom Settings menu), and the viewfinder remains dark after you’ve taken a shot until you release the shutter button, and the viewing mirror flips back down. Delaying this action can allow the camera to shoot (theoretically) more quietly, because only a soft shutter click is heard until you release the shutter button, at which time the noisier clunk of the mirror flipping back down is heard.

Selecting a Shooting Mode

The Nikon D5000 has two types of shooting modes, Advanced modes/Exposure modes, and a second set, which Nikon now labels Scene modes. (Originally they were called Digital Vari-Program modes or DVP modes, and I am now glad to drop that clumsy term forevermore.) The first two, Auto and Auto (Flash Off) are referred to as Auto modes by Nikon, but I’ve lumped them in with the other Scene modes.

The Advanced modes include Programmed-Auto (or Program mode), Aperture Priority Auto, Shutter Priority Auto, and Manual exposure mode. (I’ll call these advanced modes PASM, for their initials, from time to time in this book.) These are the modes you’ll use most often after you’ve learned all your D5000’s features, because they allow you to specify how the camera chooses its settings when making an exposure, for greater creative control.

The Scene modes take full control of the camera, make all the decisions for you, and don’t allow you to override the D5000’s settings. They are most useful while you’re learning to use the camera, because you can select an appropriate mode (Auto, Auto/No Flash, Portrait, Landscape, Sports, Close-up, or Night Portrait) and fire away. You’ll end up with decent photos using appropriate settings, but your opportunities to use a little creativity (say, to overexpose an image to create a silhouette, or to deliberately use a slow shutter speed to add a little blur to an action shot) are minimal.

Choosing a Scene Mode

The nineteen Scene modes plus the two Auto modes are selected in two different ways. Six basic Scene modes and the two Auto modes can be specified using dedicated positions on the mode dial. The others can be chosen by setting the mode dial to the Scene position, and then rotating the command dial until the Scene mode you want is displayed on the LCD. The mode dial is shown in Figure 1.12. The eight basic Scene/Auto modes are:

Auto. In this mode, the D5000 makes all the exposure decisions for you, and will pop up the internal flash if necessary under low-light conditions. The camera automatically focuses on the subject closest to the camera (unless you’ve set the lens to Manual focus), and the autofocus assist illuminator lamp on the front of the camera will light up to help the camera focus in low-light conditions.

Auto (Flash Off). Identical to Auto mode, except that the flash will not pop up under any circumstances. You’d want to use this in a museum, during religious ceremonies, concerts, or any environment where flash is forbidden or distracting.

Portrait. Use this mode when you’re taking a portrait of a subject standing relatively close to the camera and want to de-emphasize the background, maximize sharpness, and produce flattering skin tones. The built-in flash will pop up if needed.

Figure 1.12 Rotate the mode dial to select an automated Scene/Auto mode.

Landscape. Select this mode when you want extra sharpness and rich colors of distant scenes. The built-in flash and AF-assist illuminator are disabled.

Child. Use this mode to accentuate the vivid colors often found in children’s clothing, and to render skin tones with a soft, natural-looking texture. The D5000 focuses on the closest subject to the camera. The built-in flash will pop up if needed.

Sports. Use this mode to freeze fast-moving subjects. The D5000 selects a fast shutter speed to stop action, and focuses continuously on the center focus point while you have the shutter release button pressed halfway. However, you can select one of the other two focus points to the left or right of the center by pressing the multi selector left/right buttons. The built-in electronic flash and focus assist illuminator lamp are disabled.

Close-up. This mode is helpful when you are shooting close-up pictures of a subject from about one foot away or less, such as flowers, bugs, and small items. The D5000 focuses on the closest subject in the center of the frame, but you can use the multi selector right and left buttons to focus on a different point. Use a tripod in this mode, as exposures may be long enough to cause blurring from camera movement. The built-in flash will pop up if needed.

Night Portrait. Choose this mode when you want to illuminate a subject in the foreground with flash (it will pop up automatically, if needed), but still allow the background to be exposed properly by the available light. The camera focuses on the closest main subject. Be prepared to use a tripod or a vibration-resistant lens like the 18-105mm VR kit lens to reduce the effects of camera shake. (You’ll find more about VR and camera shake in Chapter 6.)

When the mode dial is set to the SCENE position, you can choose thirteen additional Scene modes by rotating the command dial. Those modes are quite self-explanatory, but I’ll list them here. You’ll find more information on shooting these kinds of scenes in Chapter 4.

Night Landscape. Adjusts for colors found from artificial lighting in night landscape scenes. Uses slow shutter speeds as required, so you should use a tripod for increased steadiness.

Party/Indoor. Useful for indoor scenes with typical interior lighting.

Beach/Snow. Compensates for extreme bright conditions found in scenes with water, sand, or snow.

Sunset. Adjusts the camera to retain the deep, colorful tones found in sunset and sunrise scenes. Consider using a tripod to avoid blur if longer shutter speeds are used.

Dusk/Dawn. The periods after sunset and before sunrise have their own special colors. This is another tripod-recommended Scene mode suited for those special times.

Pet Portrait. Useful for capturing pets that won’t sit still for a picture.

Candlelight. A tripod is a must when using this mode, intended for shooting images by the dim illumination of a flickering flame.

Blossom. This Scene mode offers extended depth-of-field (range of sharpness) that comes in handy when shooting a field full of flowers. A slow shutter speed might be needed, so you should consider using a tripod in this mode.

Autumn Colors. Increases the richness of colors to emphasize the saturated yellows and reds found in autumn leaves.

Food. Another Scene mode that sparks up the richness of colors, with an increase in contrast that makes food pictures particularly vivid.

Silhouette. Darkens subjects against a bright background. Use of a tripod may be advisable.

High key. Light scenes may have few truly dark areas, and be dominated by highlights and middle tones. This mode helps create bright images when shooting these scenes.

Low key. Scenes that are predominantly dark can benefit from this mode, which emphasizes the detail in shadows, but still allows brighter highlights to be shown.

Choosing an Advanced Mode

If you’re very new to digital photography, you might want to set the camera to P (Program mode) and start snapping away. That mode will make all the appropriate settings for you for many shooting situations. If you have more photographic experience, you might want to opt for one of the semi-automatic modes, or even Manual mode. These are described in more detail in Chapter 4. These advanced modes all let you apply a little more creativity to your camera’s settings. Figure 1.13 shows the position of the modes described next.

M (Manual). Select when you want full control over the shutter speed and lens opening, either for creative effects or because you are using a studio flash or other flash unit not compatible with the D5000’s automatic flash metering.

A (Aperture Priority). Choose when you want to use a particular lens opening, especially to control sharpness or how much of your image is in focus. Specify the f/stop you want, and the D5000 will select the appropriate shutter speed for you.

S (Shutter Priority). This mode is useful when you want to use a particular shutter speed to stop action or produce creative blur effects. Choose your preferred shutter speed, and the D5000 will select the appropriate f/stop for you.

P (Program). This mode allows the D5000 to select the basic exposure settings, but you can still override the camera’s choices to fine-tune your image, while maintaining metered exposure.

Figure 1.13 Rotate the mode dial to select an advanced mode.

Choosing a Metering Mode

The metering mode you select while using one of the advanced modes determines how the D5000 calculates exposure. You might want to select a particular metering mode for your first shots, although the default Matrix metering is probably the best choice as you get to know your camera. (It is used automatically in any of the D5000’s Scene modes.) I’ll explain when and how to use each of the three metering modes later. To change metering modes, use the Information Edit screen described earlier.

1. If the LCD screen is blank, press the Information button twice to access the Information Edit screen.

2. Use the multi selector pad’s left/right/up/down buttons to navigate to the settings at the side of the screen, and up to the Metering option. (It’s the third entry up from the bottom.)

3. Press the OK button in the center of the multi selector pad to produce the Metering screen, which has three options: Matrix, Center-Weighted, and Spot (described next).

Figure 1.14 Metering modes are (top to bottom): Matrix, Center-Weighted, Spot.

The icons for the three modes are shown in Figure 1.14.

Matrix metering. The standard metering mode; the D5000 attempts to intelligently classify your image and choose the best exposure based on readings from a 420-segment color CCD sensor that interprets light reaching the viewfinder using a database of hundreds of thousands of patterns.

Center-Weighted Averaging metering. The D5000 meters the entire scene, but gives the most emphasis to the central area of the frame, measuring about 8mm.

Spot metering. Exposure is calculated from a smaller 3.5 mm central spot, about 2.5 percent of the image area.

You’ll find a detailed description of each of these modes in Chapter 4.

Choosing Focus Options

The Nikon D5000 can focus your pictures for you, or allow you to manually focus the image using the focus ring on the lens. (I’ll help you locate this ring in Chapter 2.) Switching between Automatic and Manual focus is easy. You can move the AF/MF (Autofocus/Manual focus) or M/A-M (Manual Fine-tune Autofocus/Manual) switch on the lens mounted on your camera.

When using autofocus, you have additional choices. The D5000 has eleven autofocus zones that can be used to focus in on a particular subject area in your image. (See Figure 1.15.) In addition, you can select when the D5000 applies its focusing information to your image prior to exposure.

Selecting a Focus Mode

When you are using Program, Aperture Priority, Shutter Priority, or Manual exposure mode, you can select when the D5000 measures and locks in focus prior to pressing the shutter release down all the way and taking the picture. Just follow these steps using the Information Edit screen, as before:

1. If the LCD screen is blank, press the Information button twice to access the Information Edit screen.

2. Use the multi selector pad’s left/right/up/down buttons to navigate to the settings at the side of the screen, and up to the Autofocus option. (It’s the fifth entry up from the bottom.)

Figure 1.15 The D5000 has eleven different autofocus points, here highlighted in red for easy visibility.

3. Press the OK button in the center of the multi selector pad to produce the Focus mode screen, which has four options: AF-A, AF-C, AF-S, or Manual.

You can also select Manual focus by setting the M/A-M or AF/MF slider on the lens to M or MF. The four focus modes are as follows:

Automatic Autofocus (AF-A). This default setting switches between AF-C and AF-S, as described below.

Continuous-Servo Autofocus (AF-C). This mode, sometimes called Continuous Autofocus, sets focus when you partially depress the shutter button (or other auto-focus activation button), but continues to monitor the frame and refocuses if the camera or subject is moved. This is a useful mode for photographing sports and moving subjects.

Single-Servo Autofocus (AF-S). This mode, sometimes called Single Autofocus, locks in a focus point when the shutter button is pressed down halfway, and the focus confirmation light glows at bottom left in the viewfinder. The focus will remain locked until you release the button or take the picture. This mode is best when your subject is relatively motionless.

Manual focus (M). When focus is set to Manual, you always focus manually using the focus ring on the lens. The focus confirmation indicator in the viewfinder provides an indicator when correct focus is achieved.

Choosing Autofocus-Area Mode

I’ll explain autofocus in more depth in Chapter 5, but you can still learn to set the AF-Area mode now. There are two different ways to set the way in which the D5000 chooses the autofocus area. You can use the Information Edit screen, as described earlier (navigate to the AF-Area choice, which is fourth from the bottom, press OK, then choose one of the four modes described next). Or, you can choose the AF Area mode from the menu, following these steps:

1. Press the Menu button, and press the left multi selector button to highlight the column of icons down the left side of the menu screen.

2. Press the up/down multi selector button to navigate to the Custom Menu (indicated by a Pencil icon).

3. Press the right multi selector key twice to choose Autofocus, and then the down key to select Custom Menu Setting a1 (CSM #a1), AF-Area mode. Press the right key to view the four selections available.

4. Choose the AF-Area mode (described next), and press the OK button to select the option.

5. Press the Menu button again (or just tap the shutter release button) to exit the menu.

The four modes, described in more detail in Chapter 5, are as follows:

Single point. You always choose which of the eleven points are used, and the Nikon D5000 sticks with that focus bracket, no matter what. This mode is best for non-moving subjects.

Dynamic area. You can choose which of the eleven focus zones to use, but the D5000 will switch to another focus mode when using AF-C or AF-A mode (described next) and the subject moves. This mode is great for sports or active children.

Auto-Area. This default mode chooses the focus point for you, and can use distance information when working with a lens that has a G or D suffix in its name. (See Chapter 6 for more on the difference between G/D lenses and other kinds of lenses.)

3D Tracking (11 points). You can select the focus zone, but when not using AF-S mode, the camera refocuses on the subject if you reframe the image.

Adjusting White Balance and ISO

There are a few other settings you can make if you’re feeling ambitious, but don’t feel ashamed if you postpone using these features until you’ve racked up a little more experience with your D5000.

If you like, you can custom-tailor your white balance (color balance) and ISO (sensitivity) settings. I’ll explain more about what these settings are, and why you might want to change them, in Chapter 3. To start out, it’s best to set white balance (WB) to Auto, and ISO to ISO 200 for daylight photos, and ISO 400 for pictures in dimmer light. (Don’t be afraid of ISO 1600, however; the D5000 does a much better job of producing low-noise photos at higher ISOs than most other cameras.) You’ll find complete recommendations for both these settings in Chapter 4. You can adjust either one now by using the Information Edit screen described several times already in this chapter. White Balance is third from the top in the right-hand column; ISO is fourth from the top.

Reviewing the Images You’ve Taken

The Nikon D5000 has a broad range of playback and image review options, and I’ll cover them in more detail in Chapter 3. For now, you’ll want to learn just the basics. Here is all you really need to know at this time, as shown in Figure 1.16:

Press the Playback button (marked with a white right-pointing triangle) at the upper-left corner of the back of the camera to display the most recent image on the LCD.

Spin the command dial left or right to review additional images. You can also use the multi selector left/right buttons. Press right to advance to the next image, or left to go back to a previous image.

Press the multi selector button up or down to change among overlays of basic image information or detailed shooting information.

Press the Zoom button repeatedly to zoom in on the image displayed; the Zoom Out button reduces the image, returning an enlarged image to full screen view. (If you keep pressing Zoom Out, it will show you thumbnails and a Calendar view.) A thumbnail representation of the whole image appears in the lower-right corner with a yellow rectangle showing the relative level of zoom. At intermediate zoom positions, the yellow rectangle can be moved around within the frame using the multi selector.

Press the Protect button to mark an image and shield it from accidental erasure (but not from reformatting of the memory card).

Figure 1.16 Review your images.

Press the Trash button twice to remove the photo currently being displayed.

Press the Playback button again, or just tap the shutter release button to exit playback view.

You’ll find information on viewing thumbnail indexes of images, automated playback, and other options in Chapter 3.

Using the Built-in Flash

Working with the D5000’s built-in flash (as well as external flash units like the Nikon SB-400) deserves a chapter of its own, and I’m providing one (see Chapter 7). But the built-in flash is easy enough to work with that you can begin using it right away, either to provide the main lighting of a scene or as supplementary illumination to fill in the shadows.

Figure 1.17 The pop-up electronic flash can be used as the main light source or for supplemental illumination.

The built-in flash will pop up automatically as required in Auto, Portrait, Child, Closeup, and Night Portrait Scene modes. To use the built-in flash in Manual, Aperture Priority, Shutter Priority, or Program modes, just press the flash pop-up button (shown in Figure 1.17). When the flash is fully charged, a lightning bolt symbol will flash at the right side of the viewfinder display. When using P (Program) and A (Aperture Priority) exposure modes, the D5000 will select a shutter speed for you automatically from the range 1/200 to 1/60 seconds. In S (Shutter Priority) and M (Manual) modes, you select the shutter speed from 1/200 to 30 seconds.

Transferring Photos to Your Computer

The final step in your picture-taking session will be to transfer the photos you’ve taken to your computer for printing, further review, or image editing. Your D5000 allows you to print directly to PictBridge-compatible printers and to create print orders right in the camera, plus you can select which images to transfer to your computer. I’ll outline those options in Chapter 3.

I always recommend using a card reader attached to your computer to transfer files, because that process is generally a lot faster and doesn’t drain the D5000’s battery. However, you can also use a cable for direct transfer, which may be your only option when you have the cable and a computer, but no card reader (perhaps you’re using the computer of a friend or colleague, or at an Internet café).

Figure 1.18 Images can be transferred to your computer using a USB cable.

To transfer images from the camera to a Mac or PC computer using the USB cable:

1. Turn off the camera.

2. Pry back the rubber cover that protects the D5000’s USB port, and plug the USB cable furnished with the camera into the USB port (see Figure 1.18).

3. Connect the other end of the USB cable to a USB port on your computer.

4. Turn on the camera. The operating system itself, or installed software such as Nikon Transfer or Adobe Photoshop Elements Transfer, usually detects the camera and offers to copy or move the pictures. Or, the camera appears on your desktop as a mass storage device, enabling you to drag and drop the files to your computer.

Figure 1.19 A card reader is the fastest way to transfer photos.

To transfer images from a Secure Digital card to the computer using a card reader, as shown in Figure 1.19, do the following:

1. Turn off the camera.

2. Slide open the memory card door, press the edge of the card in, and it will pop out so you can remove the SD card from the camera.

3. Insert the Secure Digital card into your memory card reader. Your installed software detects the files on the card and offers to transfer them. The card can also appear as a mass storage device on your desktop, which you can open and then drag and drop the files to your computer.