2 2 A man’s worth measured by his animals—Power structure in the Colony—Change of Governor—Meat supplied from the wild—Without fences, domestic cattle wander off—Qualities needed in a horse
Some years ago, when sheep farms were not even dreamed of, the acquisition of cattle and horses occupied everyone’s attention. I really believe people were measured — and liked or disliked — exactly in proportion to the quantity of these animals which they happened to possess. If there is a trifling quarrel or petty jealousy existing at present between the various farmers, as regards the amount of each one’s possessions in the sheep line, it is nothing to compare with the fierce feuds previously carried on between the various cattle and horse owners.
Everyone took his standing, credit, and general status in Sandy Point society according to the number of cattle and horses he possessed. If a man owned an old walleyed1 horse and a cow or two, he was regarded as a rising man, and one whose future prospects were looking up. As for another man, who happened to own eight or ten animals, his fortune was considered as secured; and, as previously he was denominated Dick or Tom or Harry, now not even his most intimate friends would dare to mention him except as Don Ricardo, Don Tomás, etc.
Very few people did own animals at this time (I refer to the years 1871 to 1874), except the Governor and his pet crony and toady who, next to our chief (who, of course, as Governor had feathered his own nest very well) was the richest man in the little colony. There was also a Secretary who, I believe, owned eight or ten cows and a few horses, and he stood third on the list as a reigning power.
I was very much amused on my first arrival to watch the proceedings of the three great and all-powerful men. The Governor was really a capital fellow, and was most kind and attentive to us on our first arrival, and gave a general invitation to his evening levees. These, of course, we made a point of attending: first, out of pure gratitude for his kindness; and, secondly, because the reception saloon was the most comfortable room in the place, and the Governor’s whisky and cigars were not to be despised in a town where no one could buy anything but the most ordinary wachakai (caña) and very bad cigarettes. At any rate, we attended the receptions regularly: in fact, we were expected to do so, and were rather amused to watch the behaviour of the three potentates.
The Governor always occupied, of course, the big armchair in the most comfortable place before the fire, supported on either hand by the two lesser lights. The conversation was mainly conducted by these three and ourselves. There were several other far lesser lights generally present; but these (being only owners of four or five animals) kept respectfully in the background and said nothing, and did less — unless any of them observed that his Lordship required a light, or a cigar, or something else: in which case, there would be a general and frantic rush to see who could serve him first. Of course, it would have been quite infra dig for a man in his position to ask for anything; so, he would only stretch out his hand in a vague, uncertain manner and glance appealingly round … and then you should have been present to observe the excitement which ensued.
The two right and left hand supporters of the great power would actually rouse up a little and make some slight movement, as if they thought they ought to do something, but did not exactly know what. The others, however, vied with one another in their endeavours to serve the Governor first: I have actually seen two of them, each with a lighted match in his hand, bang themselves together in their efforts to be first in the field. During the confusion, a third would quietly step in and supply the required article, much to the chagrin of the other two. This is really not exaggerated: I have actually witnessed the scene I described on more than one occasion.
Please do not think that the late Don Oscar Viel was unaware of all this, or that he did not appreciate this eagerness to serve him at exactly its true value; neither, it must be imagined that he was a man in any way devoid of energy when circumstances called it forth. I have on occasion seen this same man ride all the way to Port Gallegos and back (a distance of 180 miles) in two days, to have a look at a strange vessel which was loading guano there without permission2. But, he had passed so many nights in exactly the same position, and with the same companions, that he knew that it was utterly useless for him to try and help himself when any of his satellites were present.
At this time the Colony of Sandy Point was full of convicts — many of them desperate characters — who required most careful management; and it required a most judicious man and a clever one to handle them properly. See what took place when Governor Viel was superseded, and another strict and far less intelligent man was appointed in his place. I refer to the well-remembered mutiny3 in the Colony of the year 1877, when convicts and soldiers — indignant at the extreme severity and injustice with which they were treated — joined together in one great rising; reduced the greater part of the Colony to a pile of ashes; killed the Captain of the troops, and many others who could not manage to escape; and had a general good time of it.
I have as usual gone straight off at a tangent from my original subjects, cattle and horses, but it is astonishing how one thing leads to another when one is retailing events of the past.
To return to the reunion at Señor Viel’s house: of course, what conversation took place generally referred to the absorbing topics of the day: “cattle” and “horses”. At this time, the wild horses (baguales) had not been discovered; but the wild cattle had, and a great portion of the few inhabitants dedicated themselves to the work of catching and taming them; and also killing them to supply the Colony with meat. At this time, the main meat supply was from the wild cattle in the woods, and from guanacos, deer and ostriches killed and brought in from the Pampas.
You can judge how scarce the meat supply was when I mention that guanaco, deer and ostrich meat was never sold at less than fifteen cents gold per lb., and beef or mutton generally fetched 25 cents gold, and sometimes more. It is not, therefore, to be wondered at that every one was anxious to have plenty of cattle, and also horses, with which to hunt the wild animals.
For more than a year, I did nothing but hunt game and bring the meat into the Colony: it really paid remarkably well, as far as making one’s living was concerned. As for saving money, that was impossible, as everything was so exorbitantly dear in the Colony at that time. Very often, the commonest necessaries could not be obtained at any price. There used to be periodical times of famine and plenty, according to the arrival of vessels from the North; but this was only during the first two or three years of my residence there. Now the whole country is literally inundated with stores and, of course, meat of all kinds is at a discount.
Cattle became so plentiful that the difficulty was to find a sale for them; and, both at the present moment and for years past, people have been killing them for their hides alone. A grasería was started on two different farms, and many thousands of superfluous sheep and cattle were rendered down; but, I do not fancy the business paid particularly well, or perhaps the supply was not sufficient to make it pay: at any rate, none of the rendering-down establishments worked regularly — only for a few months in the year.
When I first started farming in the Cañadón de las Vacas, I commenced with cattle alone, more with a view to clearing out the pumas than anything else; but, directly I brought up the first sheep, I found that the cattle would not remain on the ground. They gave me so much trouble that I eventually let them go; I doubt not they are at present wandering about the camp, in company with hundreds of other animals which have escaped from — or been let go by — other farmers.
At first, mine did not go very far from my camp; but, little by little, they retired inland; and, when I left Patagonia, if we wanted beef we had to go at least eight or ten leagues before we could find any to kill. Of course, we held on to the tame milk cows: not only for milking purposes, but because we found our working bullocks (one of the most necessary adjuncts to a farm, when one has to cart his produce sixty or seventy miles) would not stay on the ground unless they had some cows with them.
From the large mobs of semi-wild cattle, which I have seen from time to time in the outer and unpopulated camps, I do not doubt they will increase enormously, and in the next few years perhaps become as great a nuisance as the guanacos. However, if a man keeps a tolerably large point of milk cows, he will get sufficient increase from them to supply himself and farm with occasional banquets of beef, to change the monotony of eating nothing but mutton.
The quantity of horses to be found is now very great; large numbers of colts are shipped to the Falkland Islands, and many mares have been sent to the graserías to be rendered down. Of course, it is necessary to have a few tame mares on every farm, to keep up the strength of your troops of working horses from their colts: each tropilla requires constant renewing and strengthening, because the ground is very rough and hilly, which makes it very hard to work.
The reasons of the enormous increase in the number of working horses now existing are as follows.
First: A great number of animals have been imported from the North. For years, several parties of Englishmen and gauchos made it a regular business to go up by steamer to Bahía Blanca, Río Negro and Chubut, to purchase large troops of horses, both wild and tame. These they brought down overland, calling at the various farms on the road, and disposing of their animals at very reasonable rates. This was a very paying business for some years, but now it is completely played out, there being amply sufficient horses and mares bred in the country to supply all demands.
Second: The baguales or wild horses, formerly so numerous in the Cordilleras, were captured in great numbers and brought down for sale4. These animals themselves did not serve for hard work, unless very carefully tamed and very tenderly treated. But, crossed with tame studs in the Colony and different farms, they gave a splendid result: they are literally not to be tired, can live on almost anything, and are splendid on hilly ground. In boggy or soft ground, they are not of very much use; but, give them hills to climb and they are all there.
This race appears to be blessed with unusual powers of longevity. For example, in 1878, I brought down several pure-bred baguales from the mountains. One was at least seven years old, and the others at least three or four years. To the best of my belief these animals are still alive on Mount Observation Farm — my first establishment in the north — and are still giving yearly increase.
To anyone going down south to start farming, I can confidently recommend the purchase of this breed of horses. They do not generally run more than 13 hands high, are not at all coarse looking, but particularly wiry and strong. Remember, you don’t want a thoroughbred horse for sheep work: they are no good to you, and won’t stand climbing hills (which is indispensable in all these camps) for any time at all; you want something sturdy and untireable — never mind the looks.
Although they are, of course, cheaper than in former years, good horses are not sold cheap in Patagonia: you can’t expect to buy at Bahía Blanca or Río Negro prices. Moreover, you may be perfectly certain that, if a troop is offered to you particularly cheap, there is some reason for it. I should advise everyone who is new to the country to mount and try every horse before he buys it — don’t be taken by appearances. At the same time, you need not go in for showy or expensive tropillas.
1 Walleyed — Having large, staring eyes; eyes showing more than normal amount of white (divergent strabismus). Greenwood is being humorous.
2 Governor Viel’s horse-ride — The incident mentioned by Greenwood has not been corroborated; his figures for the distance covered and the duration of the journey are insufficient.
3 “well-remembered mutiny” — See 9, SANDY POINT MUTINY.
4 Discovery and capture of wild horses — See 4, BAGUALES (WILD HORSES).